Fashion in the Islamic Republic

One of the most common questions I get from my curious fellow countrymen is whether I have to wear a chador—the black, head-to-toe covering that leaves only the face visible. The short answer is no. The longer answer, well, that depends.

Before the Islamic Revolution, wearing a chador was not mandatory in Iran. In fact, in 1963, under the initiative of Mohammad Reza Pahlavi, the Shah launched the so-called "White Revolution," which outright banned full-body coverings for women. From a Western perspective, this might seem highly progressive, but the policy had an unintended consequence—it deprived many women of the opportunity to study or work, as their religious beliefs meant they could no longer go outside without such attire. Later, this ban was lifted, and women were free to wear whatever they chose, though Western clothing was mostly seen in the larger cities. At the end of the 1970s, around 70% of the 35-million-strong population lived in rural areas, while only 30% were urban, so only a small fraction of people actually embraced Western fashion. Interestingly, those numbers are now the exact opposite. So, before the 1979 Revolution, people could choose their attire, but Western dress was not widely culturally accepted.

Tehran Women in the '70s

After the proclamation of the Islamic Republic, Islamic dress codes were not enforced immediately—they were introduced gradually. However, once implemented, the rules became quite strict. Women were required to wear a chador or a headscarf that fully covered their hair, along with a manto, a long, loose coat that reached at least to the knees, preferably in dark colors.

Religiously Conservative Attire

As Iran's "baby boomer" generation grew up and the achievements of globalization (Instagram, YouTube, etc.) became part of everyday life, people (both women and men) began demanding more personal freedom. As a result, nowadays, barely covering headscarves, open, short, and often transparent mantos, and ankle-baring pants have become everyday attire and, overall, the average style of dress.

Tehran Today: Street Fashion Among the Youth

And here’s an interesting observation from personal experience, as I recently visited the Iranian Parliament:

Female Parliamentary Representatives in Iran Before and After the Revolution

The image on the right might seem rather monotonous and unusual to Western eyes, though it’s worth noting that nowadays even parliamentary representatives wear colorful, fashionable scarves under their chadors, which are visible since the chador covers their entire head and chest. Additionally, not all women in the parliament wear chadors anymore; many opt for more closed mantos and headscarves instead. Another interesting point is that compared to the pre-revolution era, there are now more female representatives in parliament.